One Time For Our Minds

*Posted by Jeet

The capital city of Orissa, Bhubuneswar, was somewhat of a reality check after the constant chaos and excitement of Kolkata and Puri. No towering monuments, mobs of overeager devotees, or sprawling commercial hubs were to be found here. This is your standard Indian city, where the people work hard in order to maintain their seemingly humble lifestyles. We checked into a hotel, the Arya Palace, so that we could get some rest before our overnight train back to Kolkata. Initially the guy wanted 2000Rs for the room, but I managed to get the price down to 1600Rs with some simple Bengali tactics in not bad for my first legit haggling experience in India. The "palace" was adequate, and had all the essentials, but the transition from the absurdly luxurious hotel in Puri to our mundane temporary dwelling in Bhubuneswar really gave us a perspective on things.

There wasn't really anything to do in or around the hotel, so we just chilled for a while on some quality Oriya produce and shot the shit. We had an especially good conversation with Thampu about life and the various things our family will have to do in the future to maintain its strength. As I always say, shit got real, real-real fast. Eventually, Arny and I decided to get out and explore the surrounding area. We would walk down a main street, take some random turns, and repeat. After a while we realized there wasn't much going on at all, although we did manage to cross the street a few times in an extremely nerve-racking but exciting endeavor in India.

After some more random exploring of the city we were just about ready to call it a day when we finally found something of interest. Even the most humble of cities can have its hidden gems, and for us it was the New Race Bookstore of Bhubuneswar, a tiny place we found in a completely isolated alleyway within the city. It felt good to be surrounded by stacks of books once we were inside, even though half of them were in languages unknown to us. One of the employees was particularly infatuated with us, and followed us around the store making occasional small talk and picking up books we would pick up first, looking at the descriptions despite being unable to speak in English. Who knows, maybe our friend couldn't read at all in a sad reality for many parts of underdeveloped India.

After at least an hour in the store we finally checked out with our selections. We bid farewell to the intensely quiet but friendly bookstore staff of four and rolled back to Arya Palace. Following some sub-mediocre to mediocre room service food, we were once again off to the train station, Kolkata bound, only this time in a three-tier train car in even more ghetto than before. Chyooooooo. 

It's just an everyday thang in da hood,
Jeet

Orissa

THE SUN GOD TEMPLE IN KONARK

 

Buddhist Temple

Thampu

A single day's life of one who puts out great effort
Is better than a life of a hundred years
Lived in idleness and sluggishness

-The Dhammapada

The Mayfair

Here are some photos from our beautiful hotel in Puri. Amazing statues everywhere, wonderful artwork and all the staff members were extremely helpful and friendly.  If you ever go to India be sure to visit Puri and stay in the Mayfair - it's the best around. 

The Boss Abides

*Posted by Jeet and Arny

It’s not every day that you get to find out how baller your family is, and today we got schooled. Hard. 

Introducing our one and only Boss “The Boss” Mamu. A cousin of our mom’s, “The Boss” rescheduled some work affairs he had in Kolkata so that he could come to Puri with us. Let’s just say, he taught us how India rolls.

After the engagement announcement, Boss Mamu took us out for dinner and drinks on the beach. It was a sick night, and many ridiculous stories about my family were shared. Throughout the evening the wisdom of India flowed through our cups and minds. Here are just a few tasty tidbits from our Mamu…

On the topic of Indian toilets: “India has the oldest crapping systems in the world. That’s why we’re full of bullshit!” – The Man

On the topic of why everything in India is so absurd: “Because this is India!” – The Guru

On the topic of ganj: “Fuck that Western bullshit! Here we do everything all natural! We were the first!” – The Boss

Class. Is. Dismissed.

Ram &; Lakshman

The Engagement

That’s right… Abhrajeet proposed in India in the most beautiful place we’ve seen so far. (I realize we are only 6 days in, but transitioning from Kolkata, where they city is crowded and dirty to Puri where it’s peaceful and lush a drastic contrast.)

Each day has been an adventure filled with many challenges but when we arrived in Puri all our troubles washed away as we began to enjoy the beautiful hotel, Indian ocean and time together. The day began by getting off the train around 9 in the morning and taking a nap. Abhrajeet’s uncle, Boss Mamu, unexpectedly accompanied us on the trip and it was wonderful to have him there to handle all the business. They don’t call him Boss for nothing.  One of our hotel rooms wasn’t ready so Boss pulled a few strings and Abhrajeet and I got the best room in the entire hotel. It had two terraces that overlooked the crashing ocean and was so extravagant.  At this point I kept joking that we got the honeymoon suite.

Around four o’clock the boys put on their kurthas and pajama pants while Thampu taught me how to put my sari on and we went into town. We all had an amazing day – I went around the city with Boss while the Boys and Thampu went to Jugganath (I wasn’t allowed in because I’m not of Indian decent)

We arrived back at the hotel around 7 to freshen up before going out for dinner. Abhrajeet said we should go out to the terrace and just sit for awhile however I was trying to re-tie my sari, change out of my contacts, put some clothes away, grabbing my camera and just about any task you can image that delayed the process of me going outside.

When I first went out on the terrace I had my camera and took this quick shot of Abhrajeet looking out. I realize this photo is the worst photo ever but you can get the idea of what the night looked like when Abhrajeet proposed. 

 

He told me to put the camera away and I joined him outside. I was looking out over at some people setting up for some event and Abhrajeet said he needed to go get something inside. I didn’t think anything of it and only hoped he would bring out the Kit-Kat bar in our fridge.

When he came back out he put his arms around me and said ‘Seven years ago it all started.’ Then stopped for awhile because he was choking up. This is when I started thinking ‘No way! Is this really happening?’

Then he talked about how I’ve stayed with him through it all of it, and all his family stuff.

Then I for sure knew what was coming. We looked out into the ocean and I said ‘this is perfect.’

He replied with: ‘Well, if it’s perfect then this is the right time to do this.’ He got down on one knee and said, So Katie, will you marry me. ‘

My reply was instant, ‘Yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes’

Followed by a lot of giggling, crying, hugging, kissing.

I finally put on the ring (which is an absolutely perfect fit) and giggled some more.

We then joined Arny and Boss for a celebratory dinner. 

The morning after in the proposal spot

Stay tuned for the engagement prequel post.

The Ocean

The seaside in Puri was sublime – an endless, clean stretch of sand as far as the eye could see in both directions. We had been told earlier to be careful when ocean swimming – the water was deceptively rough in this part of India. Of course, every little part of the country has its own local guru – and sure enough we were guided into the ocean by the friendly hotel nunya Ramu. It was clear that he had spent many years quiet and in thought on the beaches of Puri, helping people experience the healing qualities of the ocean. After we spent some time walking in the shallows, Ramu brought over three tubes for us and we took the plunge. We all locked arms and the nunya took us out into the sea.

The salt water splashed our faces and stung our eyes, and we laughed as the currents threw us off balance. After some time we came back to shore and just chilled. Kayd and I sat on the beach for a while and Arny rediscovered his role as Lord of the Sea, swimming far offshore amongst the powerful currents. Tiny sand crabs were everywhere, and hilarious crows hopped around the shoreline looking for bits to eat. I told Ramu we’d be back in the morning and that we’d tip him then. Unlike most people in India, he didn’t seem concerned with money, and politely told us that’s fine – whatever works.

The next morning we were all up by 6:00 and ready to make another trip into the ocean. At first Thampu was hesitant, but I insisted that she come along. “I guess I should, it would be a great shame to come all this way and not feel the ocean,” she said in Bengali, getting up out of bed, excited and eager. For a while we just sat on the beach and watched the sunrise, brushing off some local hustlers who were trying to sell us cheap goods for a quick profit, undoubtedly expecting us to ignorantly pay. Finally we once again were guided by Ramu into the water, and Thampu looked renewed as the warm water and sand flowed over her feet. After some more swimming and some unexpected encounters with camels, it was time to go in. The ocean had indeed been an enlightening experience for all of us.

Jay Jagganath,

Abhrajeet

nunya – Bengali for lifeguard

Jagganath Temple

*posted by Abhrajeet

Puri: the land of Jagganath, the all encompassing, all knowing, and all powerful. According to my Dadu, hundreds of years ago the king of Orissa had a dream that Vishnu would come to his lands from the sea in a piece of holy bark. The king immediately ordered his court to go search for this piece of bark along the oceans. At last, the holy bark was found and brought back to Puri, and around it was built one of the most awesome sites of religious worship in India: the Jagganath Temple.

The temple of Jagganath is so ancient and orthodox that non-Hindus and those not of Indian descent are forbidden to enter the complex. For this reason, Katie was taken around some other parts of Puri by my uncle, while Arny, Thampu and I traversed the temple’s awesome complex. For years my Thampu had been wanting to make this pilgrimage – the Jagganath Temple is said to be one of the four holiest sites in India, and it’s essential that the devout Hindu makes a pilgrimage there at least once in life.

There was no doubt an incredible spiritual presence in this place, despite all the idiotic hustler pandas who try to take everyone’s money by claiming spiritual wisdom. I was initially extremely worried about my grandmother walking up and down the massive steps of the temple – she had only recently had a stent put in and could barely walk five straight minutes without resting prior to our departure from the U.S. Incredibly, Thampu continuously walked up and down the massive temple steps and through the various temple rooms for over an hour and a half, not once complaining about anything. The old, strong Thampu who had raised my brother and I was back and in perfect form.

At last, we arrived in the main part of the temple, the room which contained the murtis of Jagganath, his brother Balarama, and his sister Subhadra. As the barrier blocking the room entrance was lifted, a swarm of Hindu devotees surged past where my brother, grandmother and I were standing, pushing, shoving, and generally being assholes. I stood behind my grandmother like a rock, shielding her from the chaotic rush of devotees, while she hilariously yelled and pushed random people in front of her. Finally, we entered the room and were able to have our Darshan of Jagganath. It was clear that my Thampu had been given a new energy following the Darshan. Arny and I were just relieved that we were all ok, and sat with my grandmother watching the temple monkeys frolic for a few more minutes before heading back to find Katie and my uncle outside the temple walls. We will never forget the strange but healing experience we all shared in this ancient house of Vishnu.

Hare, hare!

Abhrajeet

P.S. We couldn't take pictures inside the temple itself, so here 's a snapshot from the surrounding area - notice the cows. Oh yeah.

panda – self proclaimed priest

Darshan – holy view

murti – statue or idol

Train Ride

*posted by Kayd

We traveled to Puri by train from Kolkata. Being my first train ride I didn’t know what to expect and asked the boys if it was going to be anything like Harry Potter… Abhrajeet said “yes”, Arny said “bring your wand.” Let it be known: it is nothing like Harry Potter. Traveling by train is very common – India has the biggest railway system in the world.

Seating in the train is quite divided. To begin, there is first, second and third tier. We were in 2^nd tier which means the seating/sleeping area is bunk bed like. Each person gets their own place to lay down complete with sheets, pillow and blanket. The train is also divided into AC and Non AC, thank goodness we had air conditioning. Travelers can also be in the seating section (bus-like), standing or traveling via roof.

Since it was so late at night when we arrived at the train we made our beds and fell asleep right away hoping that the 8 hour trip would quickly pass. Note to self: next time bring some febreeze to mask the musky curtain smell.

I woke up in the middle of the night needing to use the bathroom. I woke Abhrajeet up and he escorted me to the toilet… or to be more descriptive, a hole. Yes that’s right, a hole in which someone would have to squat to relieve themselves. (I wish I took a photo but the smell around the bathrooms was enough to choke a horse and at the moment it wasn’t something I wanted to remember.)  Here’s how I can best describe it: There are elevated places to place your feet which are on the sides of a large metal bowl that has a hole in the center leading to the tracks below. The hole looks much bigger than it is and I was scared my flip flop would fall down into the poo-riden tracks to be lost forever. To help keep your balance there is a handle to hold onto in front of you when you’re in squatting position. 

We later learned that there was also a Western toilet in the room over.

Oh well, I did it, I peed in a hole! (mom aren’t you proud?)

After the sun rose we opened one of the doors in the train so we could get a clear view of the outside. I would never have guessed India would have been so green. It’s amazing! We rode past many small villages, people washing their clothes in the river and workers in the rice paddies.

The Shave

*Posted by Jeet

With all this talk about food, family, and fun, we’ve hardly had time to get back to the basics. Luckily, that’s what India is all about. A couple days ago I saw a guy getting a straight razor shave on the street. Needless to say I was immediately intrigued, and I made it a priority to get an old school shave myself before we headed to the holy city of Puri. 

The whole endeavor was pretty sick – a rando showed up at the house with a straight razor and some shaving cream, we gave him some water, newspaper, and towels, and then he balled. Arny even got his peach fuzz owned. Hard. Check the photo booth pics. 

So fresh and so clean-clean,

Jeet

“Laughter is a form of meditation.” – Swami Chaitanya Keerti , The Alchemy of Zen

Kakima

She is dear to me who runs not after the pleasant or away from the painful, grieves not, lusts not, but lets things come and go as they happen.

-The Bhagavad Gita

Ganges River Bath

*posted by Arny

“You are the greatest book that ever was or ever will be, the infinite depository of all that is. Until the inner teacher opens, all outside teaching is in vain… We are the living books, and books are but the words we have spoken… Read man, he is the living poem.” – Swami Vivekananda, Meditation and Its Methods

Needless to say, the preceding quote is pretty baller. And its fitting, for Swami Vivekananda is perhaps one of the biggest ballers of all time. For those who don’t know, Vivekananda was a great Indian spiritual leader who followed after the OTHER great Indian spiritual leader, Ramakrishna. Today's events were permeated by the wisdom and influence of these two enlightened humans.

Our day started early, with a visit to the Dakshineswar Temple, the very spot in which Ramakrishna based his spiritual teachings, built right on the bank of the Ganges. The clay tiles and mason walls breathed history, and some of the tiles even had dog paw prints cast in them, leading me to believe some stray dogs must have been strolling on the wet clay when it was laid down, however long ago that was (Kolkata has no shortage of stray dogs). Pilgrims played music and chanted mantras while walking in small groups here and there. The main temple visit ended with Ramakrishna's bedroom, which is now a part of the temple complex itself, yet another destination for eager pilgrims from all over India.

Finally, we took a dip in the Ganges.

"With meditation comes compassion and love. And the nearest object of your love and compassion has to be your own body. Keep your body healthy and vibrant, as this is the first and foremost meditation." - Rinzai, Zen Master

The Ganges River, known in India as "Ma Ganga" (Mother Ganga) is one of the most revered symbols of Indian and Hindu culture. I have only been in its cleansing waters one other time in my life, which was 7 years ago; my family had gone to it to spread my mom's and my uncle's ashes in the river. So it was already an extremely substantial place for me. But this time, dipping in the perfectly warm and inviting water, the sun crying down on our heads, I knew the experience was one of renewal, rejuvenation. Cleansing of body became a cleansing of mind. I stood in the waters meditatively and wished (and still do) that I could come for an extremely long morning bath and meditation in Ma Ganga every single day.

It was then that I pretty much decided outright that I WILL live in Kolkata for at least some portion of my life.

We then went to Belur Meth, the headquarters of the Ramakrishna Mission, a spiritual movement based upon the teachings of Ramakrishna. (Cameras are not allowed in Dakshineswar, nor Belur Meth, so we unfortunately can't give you any photos. Use your imagination.) This place is one of the most calming spaces I have ever experienced. Unlike much of the rest of Kolkata, it was absolutely devoid of chaos, dirt, and grime. It was clean, pristine, pure, quiet, green, white, blue, orange renunciation, everything I would ever want of a place of worship, The vibe was self-centering, exhaling unto my lungs warm and sweet stability. Individual monks sat in front of shrines in various buildings, chanting Sanskrit mantras in low hums while performing complex and ancient rituals. This was definitely my favorite holy site so far, as far as the vibes and serenity it offered me. Better yet, its also built upon the Ganges.

"Machines never made mankind happy, and never will make. He who is trying to make us believe this will claim that happiness is in the machine; but it is always in the mind. That man alone who is the lord of his own mind can become happy, and none else." - Swami Vivekananda, My Master

Everything I need.

- Arnesh Vijayesh Roy; Dilip Kumar Roy; Bharadwaj Gotra